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May 28, 2020

Planting dormant hardwood cuttings (“stick” planting)

DJ Growing elder

The usual advice for propagating elder plants from cuttings generally goes like this —

  • purchase or cut your own dormant hardwood cuttings
  • either root the cuttings in water and then plant them into pots or plant unrooted cuttings directly into pots
  • let the cuttings grow in a protected area until they develop vigorous roots and shoots
  • transplant the young plants into the orchard

Frankly, we have had disappointing luck following this advice. For every 100 cuttings we would start in spring, we might end up with roughly 60 to 70 plants growing in the orchard by the end of fall.

Some growers imply they are able to do a lot better, but are typically rather vague about their methods. Still other growers report discouraging results similar to ours. Is there a more reliable propagation method that is easy and simple for small-scale growers?

One method that shows promise is planting dormant, unrooted hardwood cuttings directly into the orchard. We call it the “stick” planting method.

Does it work? We decided to find out.

In the spring of 2020, some of our elder bushes were old enough to harvest cuttings. In early April, we direct-planted one full row of our home-grown York sticks and a partial row of Nova sticks.

The videos and photos below are an overview of how we planted the sticks and how the cuttings performed.

 

Preparing the site

We used a no-till, no-herbicide method. The grass and other vegetation within the row was first mowed as short as possible (scalped) to stunt the grass, and the cuttings planted directly into this sod. We added a thick layer of mulch to smother most of the weeds and grass and will remove stubborn weeds by hand as needed.

If you do not want to till or use glyphosate (Roundup) to kill existing grass and weeds, it is extremely important to mow the vegetation as short as you safely can before planting. Scalping the ground with a mower can be hard on the mower blade, but scalping will stunt the grass and weeds so the mulch has more time to smother and kill most of this unwanted vegetation.

We used a heavyweight paper mulch with a hard, flat surface finish to prepare the experimental rows shown in these videos. In the past, we have used a heavyweight paper mulch with a softer “creped” finish instead. The creped paper works better for us.

Creping adds a stretchy, crinkly texture which helps the paper lie flat on the ground, especially after it has been wetted. This discourages weed growth along the edges of the paper and makes the paper less prone to being lifted by the wind.

Old newspapers are a low- or no-cost alternative to purchased paper mulch. We lay down 4-6 sheets per layer and overlap the edges to make a thick, continuous covering. Once wetted, newsprint also lies flat.

https://hyldesgarden.com/wp-content/uploads/elder-stick-prep.mp4

 

Planting the cuttings

“Stick” planting should be done as early in spring as is practical, so the cool weather of early spring can inhibit the growth of leaves. If too many leaves sprout before the roots can develop, the cutting will die.

We normally plant rooted cuttings or established plants about 2 feet apart within a row. For this experimental “stick” planting, we spaced the cuttings about 1 foot apart within the row, because we have no idea going into this project what the survival rate will be. Based on what we learn from this experiment, we may use a wider spacing for future stick plantings.

An elderberry cutting normally has 4 buds — a pair of buds at the top and a pair near the bottom. Ideally the buds should not show any green at the time they are planted. The bottom buds are pushed below the soil surface while the upper buds remain above the ground.

Hardwood cuttings from elderberry
Hardwood cuttings from an elderberry plant. Note the angled cut on the bottom? That is the end that goes in the soil.

It takes a lot of force to push a cutting directly into our soil, and that is hard on hands and on the cuttings. We chose larger cuttings for this planting method; sturdy sticks like those in the photo (above) worked well.

We experimented with ways to quickly cut a small, deep hole in the soil. What worked best was pushing the tip of an old bayonet straight down into the ground about 6 inches deep.

We found planting was even easier if we made one cut with the blade, rotated the blade 90 degrees, and then pushed it into the same hole again to make an “X” shaped hole.

We tried to minimize damage to the bottom buds by aligning the buds so their tips pointed along one of the “X” cuts made by the knife.

We also learned to push the cuttings into the soil using care to avoid damaging the top buds. That said, a little damage is inevitable. The bottom buds often develop shoots as well as roots, so we just did our best and did not worry too much about damaging a few of the top buds.

After planting several dozen cuttings just with gloved hands, we realized we had to find a hand-saver to spread out the force. A bright yellow plastic cap borrowed from a tee post in a nearby fence became an ideal hand-saver, as shown in the video below. A small piece of wood with a large hole drilled in it, a PVC end cap for sewer pipe, or similar object will work just as well — anything to spread out the force.

https://hyldesgarden.com/wp-content/uploads/elder-stick-planting.mp4

 

Adding starter fertilizer and a final mulch of hay

We used old hay for the top mulch, but any type of heavy mulch will work, including wood chips from a municipal compost site, forestry service, or garden supply. Chips from municipal compost sites can contain varying amounts of plastic and metal bits, so try to get chips from a pile that is as clean as possible.

We had some very windy days after planting these experimental rows. Even with a generous layer of hay, the wind lifted and dislodged the smooth-finished paper mulch and hay. This has not been a problem with rows covered with a creped paper mulch and similar layer of hay, so I am inclined to think the smooth paper is the culprit.

To solve this problem, we added more hay and pinned the mulch in place with temporary stakes (step-in electric fence posts, to be exact). As the weeks go by, the paper and hay should mat down and become more wind resistant. We will eventually remove the stakes.

https://hyldesgarden.com/wp-content/uploads/elder-stick-mulching.mp4

 

Seven weeks after planting

Chuck irrigated the “stick” plantings a couple of times in the weeks after planting. Since then, the hay and paper mulch and a few rain showers have kept the soil sufficiently moist.

The Nova sticks are looking really good which is a happy surprise. When we propagate Nova cuttings in pots, a large majority do not survive. Stick planting may be an excellent way to propagate this variety.

The York sticks appear to be a tiny bit less vigorous compared with the Nova sticks. Compared to York cuttings started in pots, however, the stick planted Yorks are performing very well.

At this point in late May, I estimate 5-10 cuttings per 100 sticks planted are not showing any shoots or other signs of life. Elder cuttings often surprise us by sprouting shoots long after we have given up hope, however, so we will wait until fall before making a final conclusion about the actual loss.

Nova elder cuttings 7 weeks after planting
Stick cuttings 7 weeks after planting, overview

 

Nova elder cuttings 7 weeks after planting, closeup
Stick cuttings 7 weeks after planting, closeup

 

Seven months after planting

As of October, the overall failure rate of our stick planting trial is about 5%. In other words, about 1 stick in 20 did not grow.

We irrigated another time during a dry spell in August. We also weeded and re-mulched the rows toward the end of summer to reduce weed competition and keep the soil cooler and more moist. Otherwise these young plants have been on their own, and they have thrived surprisingly well.

We are very happy with these results. This stick planting method eliminates all of the labor and materials needed to root cuttings, dormant sticks are easier to plant compared with rooted cuttings and established plants, and the failure rate is considerably lower compared with rooted cuttings.

March 22, 2020

Planting and growing elder

DJ Growing elder

Instructions for starting, planting, and growing hardwood cuttings…. from River Hills Harvest. I recommend you click on the link and then print or save this handy article.

Hardwood cuttings from elderberry
Hardwood cuttings from an elderberry plant. Note the angled cut on the bottom? That is the end that goes in the soil.

Here are other thoughts and suggestions based on our experience as small-scale, part-time growers in the upper Midwest —

Choose the site for your elder plants with care. A sunny, fertile site that stays slightly on the damp side is ideal. Avoid dry upland locations, low-lying boggy areas, or overly shady sites. If you have an area in full sun where grass usually grows lush and green, that might be a prime spot for elderberries.

Elder prefers soil with the ability to retain moisture and nutrients yet still drains well. Good soil types would be silty-loam or clay-loam soils rather than sandy soil or heavy clay.

If you live in the right climate and carefully choose the location for your elder orchard, irrigation may only be needed for young plants. We irrigate plants for the first couple of years using inexpensive soaker hoses from the hardware store. We do not irrigate mature plants.

Some growers in warmer regions of North America are skeptical that elderberries can thrive without supplemental irrigation, but we are not the only growers in the upper Midwest who do not irrigate and get good results. Growers in hotter or drier climates or those with sandier, drier soils, however, may need to install permanent irrigation systems for elderberry to thrive.

Two year old plants in rows spaced 14 feet apart. It seems like there is plenty of room between rows at this age, but that will change as time passes.

We space rows about 14 feet apart and have sometimes debated whether a 16 foot spacing between rows would be better. A 14-16 foot spacing might seem overly generous to the inexperienced eye, but remember elderberry plants spread a lot as they mature.

Leave aisles wide enough so you can get a riding mower, small tractor or ATV, and other equipment between rows with minimal damage to the canes. Other benefits of a generous aisle width are maximizing the sunlight that reaches the plants and encouraging air movement for disease control.

Elder bushes in bloom
3-4 year old elder plants planted 2 feet apart within the row. Rows are spaced about 14 feet apart. These older bushes shade a lot of the aisle. As berries develop, the canes will be weighed down and spread even more.

We space our plants 2 feet apart within each row. As the plants mature and spread, they will form a nearly continuous line of plants along the row. This discourages a lot of weed growth within the row.

Young elder plant with new mulch
Newly transplanted elder plant (center) in a row mulched with paper (brownish purple at top center) and coarse wood shavings. We will add a layer of old hay or bark mulch over the shavings.

Mulching around young plants is absolutely a requirement. Mulch controls grasses and other weeds that will otherwise stunt or kill the small elder plants. Mulch also keeps the soil cooler and moister to reduce the need for irrigation and minimize stress on young plants.

Some growers use plastic sheeting or plastic weed barrier as mulch. We have been using a continuous layer of paper mulch on either side of the elder plants to smother young weed seedlings. We have used heavy commercial paper mulch that comes in large rolls or thick layers of recycled newspaper sheets or a combination of both.

We will sometimes cover the paper mulch with a layer of coarse wood shavings (sold in large bales for animal bedding) for short term protection and to fill in any gaps in the paper.

The wood shavings are not strictly necessary, but they are easy and light enough to quickly scatter over and around tender young plants as we plant. Unless the weather is really windy, the shavings will hold the paper in place for a day or two until we have time to add the heavier hay or bark mulch.

A generous layer of old hay or bark mulch is applied over the shavings for longer lasting weed control and better protection from wind.

When finished, the mulch extends 1 1/2 to 2 feet on either side of the elder plants. That allows us to mow safely along the edge of mulch without damaging the plants.

Nova elder cuttings 7 weeks after planting
First year plants protected with paper and hay mulch

We renew the hay/bark mulch every year for the first two or three years. As elder plants become taller and more lush, they will shade out all but the worst of the weeds and further mulching is not strictly necessary.

Regular mowing along the aisles, hand weeding within the rows, and perhaps some careful spot applications of herbicide do a pretty good job of controlling weeds in a mature planting.

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February 20, 2020

Using and storing elderberries

DJ Recipes

Fresh berries

Handle and store fresh elderberries the same as fresh raspberries, blueberries, or strawberries.

Refrigerate and use berries within a few days after harvest for best quality. For longer storage, freeze or dry the berries.

Frozen berries

Freezing elderberries is easy. Put fresh berries in a heavy-duty plastic bag or freezer-safe container. Press excess air out of the bag, seal, and pop in the freezer.

For best flavor and aroma, use frozen berries within about 1 year after harvest.

Dried berries

Store dried elderberries in an air-tight container away from light and heat. For best flavor and aroma, use the berries within 2 years after harvest.

Reconstitute dried berries before adding them to muffins, quick breads, pancakes, and similar recipes where fresh berries are normally used.

To reconstitute, soak the berries in an equal volume of warm water for about 30 minutes or until the berries are tender and plump. Include any extra soaking liquid as part of the liquid needed for the recipe or discard it.

Ideas for use

Try elderberries in any recipe calling for blueberries or raspberries.

To avoid turning the batter totally purple, gently fold fresh or frozen berries into batter as the last step.

Add frozen elderberries directly to muffin and cake batter without thawing. The frozen berries may add a few minutes to the baking time.

Weights and volumes

Substitute 1 cup of dried elderberries for every 2 cups of fresh or frozen elderberries.

3 ounces by weight of dried elderberries measures about 1 cup. This is the equivalent of about 2 cups (12 ounces by weight) of fresh berries.

6 ounces by weight of fresh or frozen elderberries is about 1 cup.

1 pound (16 ounces by weight) of frozen or fresh elderberries is about 2 1/2 cups.

1 pound (16 ounces by weight) of frozen or fresh berries will produce about 1 cup of pressed juice or about 2 cups of steam-distilled juice.

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February 18, 2020

Elderflower cordial

DJ Recipes

This versatile simple syrup adds a delicate floral flavor to drinks and foods.

Quantity: Makes about 4 cups (1 quart / 1 liter)

Ingredients:

5 to 6 cups of fresh elderflowers (about 5 oz / 140 g), removed from their stems and gently packed OR 1 heaping cup dried elderflower (about 1 oz / 30 g) (1)

2 cups water (16 oz / 450 g)

2 cups sugar (14 oz / 400 g) OR 1 3/4 cups honey (21 oz / 600 g)

1/2 to 1 teaspoon citric acid powder or more to taste (2)

2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice or more to taste (3)

Optional: Zest from 1/2 to 1 lemon

Method:

In a 3 quart stainless steel or enameled pan, bring the water to a full boil. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved.

Remove the pan from heat, and stir in the citric acid, lemon juice, and optional lemon zest. Syrup will foam up.

Cover the pan and let the syrup cool until the pan is pleasantly warm to the touch — less than 100 degrees F. Do not mix elderflowers with hot syrup because the heat will alter their flavor.

Put the flowers in a 1 1/2 or 2 quart (1 1/2 to 2 liter) container with a wide mouth and a tight-fitting lid (a 2-quart canning jar works well). Slowly pour the syrup over the flowers. Stir often to eliminate air bubbles and thoroughly mix the syrup with the flowers.

Cap the container, store in the refrigerator, and let the flowers infuse for 2-3 days. Gently mix the flowers and syrup once or twice a day.

When the infusion is done, sanitize one 32-ounce (1 quart, 1 liter) canning jar or 2 or 3 smaller jars with a total of 32 ounces of capacity by washing the jars in the dishwasher on a normal or sanitizing cleaning cycle. An alternative method to sanitize the jars is to submerge them for about 1 minute in a pot of water at a full rolling boil. Leave the jars in the dishwasher or hot water until you are ready to fill them.

Pour the syrup and flowers through a wire-mesh strainer. Press the flowers to get as much syrup as possible. Discard the flowers.

Pour the syrup into the sanitized jars, seal securely, and refrigerate or freeze.

If made with the citric acid and lemon juice as called for in the recipe and kept refrigerated in unopened, sanitized jars, the syrup will likely keep for up to 4 weeks. After a jar is opened, use the syrup within 1 or 2 weeks.

The cordial will be cloudy yellow from the pollen in the flowers. Before use, shake or stir the cordial to mix the pollen back into the liquid.

If you want a perfectly clear cordial, allow the pollen to settle and then slowly pour the clear liquid off the top. Without the pollen, the floral aroma and taste will not be quite as strong.

Use elderflower cordial in place of regular simple syrup when making mixed drinks. Mix it with club soda and ice for an elder flower spritzer. Use it to sweeten hot or iced tea or as a flavoring in frostings or icings for cakes.

Notes:

(1) This cordial is best made from freshly picked flowers. If using dried flowers, use flowers with a pleasant floral aroma. Avoid flowers with a dusty or toasted odor.

(2) Find citric acid in the canning section at your local grocery or hardware store. Lemon juice and/or citric acid powder adds flavor and, if used in the recommended amounts or more, these acids will also help increase the shelf life. Do not use ascorbic acid (sometimes sold as “Fruit Fresh”) in place of citric acid or lemon juice.

(3) If you do not have citric acid, double the amount of lemon juice.

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February 18, 2020

Elderberry syrup

DJ Recipes

Our recipe for elderberry syrup calls for simmering the berries and liquid for a brief time followed by a gentle steep off the heat, all in a covered pan. This gentle infusion method creates a deep purple syrup that smells and tastes of fresh elderberries. 

The ratio in this recipe of 1 part dried berries to 2 parts water by volume is recommended by herbalists Rosemary Gladstar (1) and Tieraona Low Dog (2). Many recipes use only 1 part berries in 4 parts water, but they typically also call for cooking the syrup long enough to reduce the syrup volume by half. This long cook time affects the taste and aroma.

Quantity: Makes 3-4 cups syrup.

Ingredients:

2 cups dried elderberries (6 oz, 170 g) OR 4 cups fresh or frozen berries (24 oz, 680 g)

4 cups water (32 oz, 908 g)

1 1/2 cups honey (18 oz, 510 g) OR 2 cups sugar (14 oz, 400 g) Adjust sweetener to taste if necessary (3)

2-3 tablespoons lemon juice OR 1/2 teaspoon citric acid powder (4)

Optional: Add one or more of these spices —

  • 1 or 2 cinnamon sticks OR 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 6 whole cloves OR 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1 to 2 inch piece of fresh ginger root, grated (1-2 Tablespoon) OR 1 teaspoon ginger powder
  • 1/2 to 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Method:

Sanitize one 32-ounce (1 quart) canning jar or 2 or 3 smaller jars with a total of 32 ounces of capacity by washing the jars in the dishwasher on a normal or sanitizing cleaning cycle. An alternative method to sanitize the jars is to submerge them for about 1 minute in a pot of water at a full rolling boil. Leave the jars in the dishwasher or hot water until you are ready to fill them.

In a 3 quart stainless steel or enameled pot, bring the berries, water, and optional spices to a gentle simmer. Cover the pan and gently simmer for about 30 minutes. Turn off heat and let the mixture continue to steep with the cover on for another hour.

Line a sieve with cheesecloth, pour the syrup and berries into the sieve. Squeeze the cloth and berries to extract as much of the juice as possible. Discard the berries.

Stir in the sugar or honey and the lemon juice or citric acid.

Pour the syrup into sanitized jars, seal securely, and refrigerate or freeze. The syrup, if made as written and kept refrigerated in unopened, sanitized jars, will likely keep for up to 4 weeks, possibly longer. After a jar is opened, use the syrup within 1 or 2 weeks.

There is no specific dosage for elderberry syrup as a health tonic. I suggest 1-2 teaspoons per day for healthy adults and children. This dosage can be doubled or tripled when a person is sick with a cold or the flu.

This syrup can also be enjoyed on pancakes, oatmeal, or ice cream or add it to hot or cold tea or lemonade.

Notes:

(1) Rosemary Gladstar. Medicinal Herbs: A beginner’s guide. Storey Publishing. 2012.

(2) Tieraona Low Dog. How to Make Elderberry Syrup for Immune Health. Downloaded 13 Feb 2020 from https://blog.mountainroseherbs.com/elderberry-syrup-recipe

(3) You can use less or no sweetener or use a non-sugar sweetener such as Splenda. A reduced- or no-sugar syrup is more perishable than a syrup that is sweetened and acidified per this recipe. A low/no sugar syrup should be consumed within 1 week. Freeze for longer storage.

(4) Lemon juice or citric acid powder adds flavor and, if used in the recommended amounts or more, will help increase the shelf life. Find citric acid in the canning section at your local grocery or hardware store. Do not use ascorbic acid (sometimes sold as “Fruit Fresh”) in place of citric acid or lemon juice.

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February 16, 2020

Using and storing elderflower

DJ Recipes

Suggestions for storing and using elderflower.

Fresh flower

Fresh elderflower is extremely perishable and should be used soon after harvest.

It can be held for a day or two in the refrigerator, but the aroma disappears fast. Store the flower in a container with a loose covering that allows excessive moisture to escape.

Dried flower

For longer storage, elderflower should be dried. Elder flower does not freeze well.

Store dried elderflower in an air-tight container away from light and heat. For best flavor and aroma, use elderflower within about 1 year after harvest.

The chemical compounds that create elderflower’s delicately sweet floral aroma will fade in storage, but other beneficial chemicals may stay fairly stable for up to 2 years. (1)

Ideas for use

Elderflowers are fully edible and the blossoms remain nicely white even when heated.

The flowers can be folded into a light batter and fried into a sweet, fragrant fritter. A few blossoms can be sparingly scattered over a frosted cake or floated on a cup of iced or hot tea.

They can be steeped by themselves to make a caffeine-free golden yellow tea or included in tea blends.

The classic use of elderflowers is for making a cordial — a simple syrup of water and sugar that has been infused with elder flowers and lemon. The flowers leave their distinctive aroma and golden yellow pollen in the syrup.

This pale yellow cordial can be used in alcoholic mixed drinks, hot or iced tea, and cake frosting. It can be diluted with sparkling water to make a refreshing spritzer.

Weights and volumes

1 ounce by weight of dried elderflower measures a generous 1 cup.

1 ounce by weight of dried elderflower is equivalent to about 5 cups of fresh, de-stemmed flowers that have been gently packed.

Notes:

(1) Kaack, K & Christensen, L.P. (2010). Phenolic Acids and Flavonoids in Tea Processed from Flowers of Black Elder (Sambucus nigra L.) Stored in Different Packing Materials. European Journal of Horticultural Science. 75. 214-220.

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February 4, 2020

American vs European elder

DJ General info

We grow American elder (Sambucus canadensis), sometimes called American black elder, a plant native to eastern North America and Central America.

Other varieties of elder grow in North America, including the blue elder (Sambucus cerulea), Mexican elder (Sambucus mexicana), and red elder (Sambucus racemosa). (1)

European elder (Sambucus nigra) is the most common elder native to Europe and Great Britain. This is the elderberry commonly sold by online stores and local health food markets.

The berries and flower of American elder offer similar flavor and health benefits and can be used in the same ways as European elder.

American elder varieties are genetically almost identical to European elder, but American varieties are more cold hardy and tend to grow more vigorously in our climates. (2) American elder typically grow as multi-stemmed bushes while European varieties are usually somewhat taller shrubby trees.

Another difference — European elderberries contain significant levels of cyanogenic glycosides, a family of chemicals that can be converted into cyanide, a hazardous chemical. European elderberries must be heated or otherwise processed to deactivate these glycosides. American elderberries (Sambucus canadensis) have low levels of glycosides — lower than commercial apple juice. The berries and juice are safe to consume without special treatment according to recent research by the University of Missouri. (3)

“…Taking all of this information into consideration, my personal conclusion is that elderberries are as safe to consume as apples, with or without heating….” (4)

That said, consuming fresh American elderberry can cause digestive upset in some people. Consume small amounts of fresh berries or juice until you know how your body reacts. If you experience digestive upset, which may include intestinal cramps or diarrhea, try gently simmering the berries or juice for 10-15 minutes.

References:

(1) Wikipedia. Sambucus. Downloaded 16 February 2020 from en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Sambucus&oldid=933640739

(2) Observations from Carandale Farm, Univ of Wisconsin. Uncommon Fruit: European elderberry. Downloaded 20 February 2020 from uncommonfruit.cias.wisc.edu/european-elderberry/

(3) University of Missouri Extension Service staff. Unpublished results presented at the 2019 Comprehensive Elderberry Workshop hosted by River Hills Harvest. Jefferson City, MO, 14-15 June 2019. Powerpoint slides from this talk downloaded 19 March 2020 from https://www.greatplainsgrowersconference.org/uploads/2/9/1/4/29140369/elderberry_cyanide_st._joe_january_2019.pdf

(4) Rebekah Bailey. Elderberry Toxicity. The Essential Herbal magazine, Nov/Dec 2019 issue. Republished online in its entirety in a 15 March 2020 blog post by Tina Sams, editor and publisher of The Essential Herbal. Downloaded 16 March 2020 from https://theessentialherbal.blogspot.com/2020/03/elderberry-new-research.html

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